The short answer: the Georgian Military Highway runs 152 km north from Tbilisi to Stepantsminda (Kazbegi), about 3–3.5 hours without stops, and closer to 6 hours with the stops worth making. In order, they are: Jvari Monastery above Mtskheta (optional), the Zhinvali reservoir, Ananuri fortress, Pasanauri, Gudauri and the Friendship Monument, the Jvari Pass at 2,379 m, the travertine springs, Stepantsminda and Gergeti Trinity Church. Here is what each one is, with notes on driving the road.
The stops, in order
1. Jvari Monastery and Mtskheta (optional)
Just outside Tbilisi, the 6th-century Jvari Monastery stands on a hill above the meeting of the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers, with Mtskheta below. It adds 45–60 minutes. On a day trip to Kazbegi most people skip it, or see Mtskheta on another day; on a two-day trip it's an easy first stop.
2. Zhinvali reservoir
About an hour out of Tbilisi the road reaches the turquoise Zhinvali reservoir on the Aragvi. There are roadside viewpoints above the water; a 10-minute photo stop is enough.
3. Ananuri fortress
About 70 km from Tbilisi, Ananuri is a 17th-century fortress of the Aragvi dukes on the edge of the reservoir, with the Church of the Assumption inside its walls. Climb the tower for the view over the water. Allow 30–45 minutes; shoulders and knees covered in the churches.
4. Pasanauri
The village of Pasanauri, near where the White and Black Aragvi rivers meet, is known for its khinkali, and the roadside restaurants make it a good lunch stop. It is also the base for rafting on the White Aragvi from late spring to autumn.
5. Gudauri and the Friendship Monument
The road climbs in hairpins to Gudauri, Georgia's largest ski resort, about 120 km from Tbilisi. Just past it, on a cliff above the Devil's Valley, is the Russia–Georgia Friendship Monument, a semicircular concrete viewpoint built in 1983 for the 200th anniversary of the Treaty of Georgievsk. Inside, a long tiled mosaic shows scenes from Georgian and Russian history. The view down the valley is the reason to stop; paragliders often launch nearby in summer. Allow 20 minutes.
6. Jvari Pass (2,379 m)
The highest point of the road, between Gudauri and Kobi. It is often colder, windier and snowier than anywhere else on the route. This is the section that closes in winter.
7. The travertine springs
Just below the pass on the north side, iron-rich mineral springs run down the hillside next to the road, leaving white and orange terraces of travertine. It's a short photo stop; some people fill a bottle from the spring.
8. Stepantsminda (Kazbegi)
The small town at the end of the road sits at about 1,750 m, with Mt Kazbek (5,054 m) above it on a clear day. There are cafés and restaurants for lunch, and ATMs.
9. Gergeti Trinity Church (2,170 m)
The 14th-century church on the ridge above town is the classic view of the whole trip. A sealed road goes up in season; walking up takes 1–1.5 hours. For more on the church and hikes around it, read our Kazbegi and Gergeti guide.
With time to spare, you can continue a few kilometres towards the Russian border to the Dariali gorge, or walk to the Gveleti waterfall (30–40 minutes each way on a rocky path, May–October).
Driving the road
- Lorries. The highway is also the road to Upper Lars, Georgia's only open land crossing with Russia, so it carries a steady stream of heavy lorries. Overtaking on the hairpins above Pasanauri needs patience, and queues of trucks for the border can add 1–3 hours, especially on the way back.
- Weekend traffic. Friday and Sunday evenings are slow near Tbilisi.
- Weather. It can be sunny in Tbilisi and snowing on the pass. Gergeti is often about 10 °C cooler than Tbilisi; bring a warm layer even in summer.
- Livestock. Cows and sheep walk on the road, especially in the villages.
- Roadworks. A new Kvesheti–Kobi road with tunnels is being built to bypass the pass. It is due to open in stages, with completion expected in late 2026–2027. Until it officially opens, plan on the old road.
In winter
From December to April the Gudauri–Kobi section over the Jvari Pass can close for a few hours, or occasionally one to three days, after heavy snow or when the avalanche risk is high. Winter tyres are compulsory on this road in winter, and snow chains are sometimes required. Ananuri, Pasanauri and Gudauri on the Tbilisi side usually stay reachable. Check the Roads Department announcements the evening before and in the morning, and don't make Kazbegi your last day before a flight. Our guide to the Kazbegi road in winter has the details.
Driving yourself or with a driver?
The road is sealed and in decent shape, and plenty of visitors drive it in a hire car in summer. It is also a mountain road shared with heavy lorries, and the stops are easier to enjoy when someone else is handling the hairpins and finding parking. In winter, we'd strongly suggest a driver who knows the road.
Tours on the Military Highway
Our private Kazbegi day trip stops at Zhinvali, Ananuri, the Friendship Monument and Gergeti in an 11–12 hour day. With a night in Stepantsminda, the 2-day Kazbegi trip adds Jvari, a khinkali lunch in Pasanauri, Gergeti in the evening light and a walk in the Truso or Juta valley. For something active, the Ananuri and Aragvi rafting day covers the first half of the road with a raft run from Pasanauri. See each tour page for the current price, or plan your own route and we send a price for your own car and driver-guide. Nothing to pay now.
Sources
- Wander-Lush, "How to travel from Tbilisi to Kazbegi in 2026": wander-lush.org
- Wander-Lush, "Places to visit on a Georgian Military Highway road trip": wander-lush.org
- Wikipedia, "Russia–Georgia Friendship Monument": en.wikipedia.org
- Wikipedia, "Jvari Pass Travertine Natural Monument": en.wikipedia.org
- Roads Department of the Ministry of Infrastructure of Georgia: georoad.ge
- Kvesheti–Kobi road project: kveshetikobiroad.ge
Last checked: September 2026. Road conditions and the Kvesheti–Kobi timeline change; the official announcement on the day always takes precedence.
