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Mtskheta

Tbilisi & Surroundings · History

Getting there
About 25 km (30 min) from Tbilisi on the four-lane highway
Best time
Year-round
Recommended stay
Half a day

About Mtskheta

Mtskheta, about 25 km (30 min) north of Tbilisi where the Aragvi meets the Mtkvari, was the capital of the ancient kingdom of Kartli (Iberia) and the place where Georgia adopted Christianity in the 4th century. Its churches are a UNESCO World Heritage Site: Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in the old town, Jvari Monastery on the hill opposite with the classic view over the river confluence, and the Samtavro convent. Allow half a day, or combine it with Gori and Uplistsikhe or a Mukhrani winery.
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Must-See Attractions

  • Svetitskhoveli Cathedral

    11th-century cathedral where tradition places the burial of Christ's robe, with the tombs of kings Vakhtang Gorgasali and Erekle II and large frescoes; inside a fortified wall.

  • Jvari Monastery

    Late 6th-century church on the hill across the Aragvi, a model for later Georgian churches, with the classic view of Mtskheta and the river confluence.

  • Samtavro Monastery

    Working convent with the 11th-century Transfiguration church, the tombs of King Mirian and Queen Nana, and a small chapel on the site of St Nino's bramble garden.

  • Old town streets

    The restored lanes around Svetitskhoveli with cafés and craft shops.

Nearby

  • Armazi and Bagineti

    Remains of the ancient royal acropolis across the Mtkvari, about 5 km (10 min).

  • Shio-Mgvime Monastery

    6th-century cave monastery in a quiet gorge, about 12 km (25 min).

  • Mukhrani

    Wine valley with Château Mukhrani and other estates, about 25 km (30 min).

  • Ananuri Fortress

    17th-century fortress on the Zhinvali reservoir, about 45 km (50 min) north.

Location41.8425° N, 44.7197° EView on map

Good to know

Getting there

About 25 km (30 min) from Tbilisi on the four-lane highway; Jvari is reached by a paved side road from the highway.

Best time

Year-round

Best time

Spring and autumn are the most pleasant for walking the old town and for the view from Jvari, summer afternoons are hot, and winter is quiet and still fine for a visit.

Recommended stay

Half a day

Getting there

About 25 km (30 min) from Tbilisi; the old town is walkable, but Jvari is on a separate hilltop about 10 km by road.

Fees

The churches are free.

Dress code

Shoulders and knees covered; women cover their hair in churches (scarves are usually available at the entrance).

Heads-up

Svetitskhoveli is busy on Sundays and feast days during services; weekday mornings are quieter.

Time needed

3–4 hours for all three churches.

History & culture

Culture

Mtskheta remains the spiritual centre of the Georgian Orthodox Church, and the Catholicos-Patriarch holds services at Svetitskhoveli on major feasts. On 14 October the town celebrates Svetitskhovloba (Mtskhetoba) with a liturgy, processions and a street festival. Icon workshops and souvenir stalls line the street to the cathedral.

History

Mtskheta was the capital of Kartli from about the 3rd century BC until the late 5th century AD, when King Vakhtang Gorgasali began the move to Tbilisi. In the early 4th century St Nino converted King Mirian III and Queen Nana, and Christianity became the state religion. Jvari Monastery was built between about 590 and 605 over the spot where Nino is said to have raised a wooden cross. The present Svetitskhoveli Cathedral was built in 1010–1029 by the architect Arsukisdze. Mtskheta's churches were listed by UNESCO in 1994.

Local Cuisine

Mtskheta's restaurants serve classic Kartlian dishes such as lobio (bean stew) in clay pots, khinkali and khachapuri; for local wine, the Mukhrani valley estates 30 minutes away make Saperavi and Goruli Mtsvane.

Accommodation

Small family hotels and guesthouses in the old town, some with views of Svetitskhoveli, and a few larger hotels on the approach roads; most travellers visit on a day trip from Tbilisi.