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Ananuri Fortress

Kazbegi & Mtskheta · History

Getting there
About 70 km (1–1.25 h) north of Tbilisi on the Georgian Military Highway (paved), beside the road to Kazbegi
Best time
Year-round
Recommended stay
30–45 minutes

About Ananuri Fortress

Ananuri is a 17th-century fortress of the Dukes of Aragvi above the turquoise Zhinvali reservoir, about 70 km (1–1.25 h) north of Tbilisi on the Georgian Military Highway. Inside its walls stand two churches, one with richly carved façades from 1689, and a square watchtower you can climb for a view down the reservoir. It is the usual first stop on the way to Kazbegi or Pasanauri, and 30–45 minutes is enough to see it.
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Must-See Attractions

  • Church of the Mother of God (1689): The larger church, with carved façades showing a large cross, grapevines and animals, and remains of frescoes inside.

  • Church of the Virgin

    The older, smaller church of the early 17th century, with graves of the Aragvi dukes.

  • Sheupovari tower

    The square tower of the upper fortress, where the defenders made their last stand; the steep inner stairs lead to a view over the reservoir.

  • Walls and reservoir view

    Walk along the walls for views over the Zhinvali reservoir and the Aragvi valley.

Nearby

  • Zhinvali reservoir viewpoints

    Pull-outs along the Military Highway just south of Ananuri give the classic view of the fortress above the water.

  • Pasanauri

    A village on the Aragvi, starting point for rafting, about 20 km (25 min) north.

  • Gudauri and the Russia–Georgia Friendship Monument

    About 50 km (1 h) north. Stepantsminda (Kazbegi): The mountain town below Gergeti Trinity Church, about 85 km (1.5–2 h) north.

Location42.1650° N, 44.7042° EView on map

Good to know

Getting there

About 70 km (1–1.25 h) north of Tbilisi on the Georgian Military Highway (paved), beside the road to Kazbegi.

Best time

Year-round

Best time

The reservoir is at its most turquoise from late spring to autumn, and in winter the fortress is open and quiet but the tower steps can be icy.

Recommended stay

30–45 minutes

Fees

Entry is free.

What to wear

Shoulders and knees covered in the churches; women usually cover their hair, and scarves are often available at the entrance.

Heads-up

The tower stairs are narrow and steep, with low doorways.

Time needed

30–45 minutes.

Photography

The best view of the fortress with the reservoir is from the road pull-outs to the south.

History & culture

Culture

Local legend explains the name: a woman called Ana from the village of Nuri was captured during a siege and refused to reveal the fortress's secret water tunnel, even under torture. The carved façades of the Church of the Mother of God, with a large cross, vines and animals, are a late example of the Georgian tradition of carved church façades.

History

Ananuri was the seat of the eristavis (dukes) of Aragvi, who ruled the Aragvi valley from the 13th century and fought repeatedly with rival lords and the Georgian kings. The present complex dates from the 17th century: the smaller Church of the Virgin from the first half of the century, and the larger Church of the Mother of God from 1689. In 1739 the forces of a rival duke, Shanshe of Ksani, stormed and burned the fortress and killed the Aragvi family. After peasant revolts in the 1740s, the valley came under the direct rule of the kings of Kartli and Kakheti. The complex has been on UNESCO's tentative list since 2007.

Local Cuisine

Pasanauri, 25 minutes north, is known across Georgia for its khinkali (meat dumplings in the mountain style, with herbs and broth); roadside restaurants on the Military Highway serve them all day.