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Photos: Yasuhiro Kojima (CC BY-SA 4.0) · Wikimedia Commons

Pasanauri

Kazbegi & Mtskheta · Nature

Getting there
About 90 km (1.5 h) north of Tbilisi on the Georgian Military Highway (paved), about 30 min beyond Ananuri
Best time
May–September for rafting
Recommended stay
Half a day

About Pasanauri

Pasanauri is a village at about 1,050 m on the Georgian Military Highway, where the White (Tetri) and Black (Shavi) Aragvi rivers meet, about 90 km (1.5 h) north of Tbilisi and 25 km above Ananuri. It is the main base for rafting on the White Aragvi from late spring to early autumn, and the classic lunch stop on the road to Kazbegi: Pasanauri is famous across Georgia for its khinkali, and roadside restaurants make them fresh all day.
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Must-See Attractions

  • White Aragvi rafting

    The usual run goes from Pasanauri downstream to Meneso, about 12 km, grade II–III depending on the water level.

  • River confluence

    The meeting of the clear White Aragvi and the darker Black Aragvi at the edge of the village.

  • Khinkali lunch

    Roadside restaurants along the highway serve khinkali made to order.

Nearby

  • Ananuri Fortress

    17th-century fortress with two churches above the Zhinvali reservoir, about 25 km south (30 min).

  • Gudauri

    Ski resort and paragliding centre, about 30 km north (40 min). Stepantsminda (Kazbegi): Mountain town below Mount Kazbek, about 65 km north (1.5 h).

Location42.3464° N, 44.6928° EView on map

Good to know

Getting there

About 90 km (1.5 h) north of Tbilisi on the Georgian Military Highway (paved), about 30 min beyond Ananuri.

Best time

May–September for rafting; year-round as a stop

Best time

High spring water in May and June makes for the liveliest rafting, July to September suits gentler family runs, and in winter Pasanauri is simply a lunch stop on the way to Gudauri.

Recommended stay

Half a day

Rafting

Go with an experienced operator that provides a helmet, life jacket and wetsuit; the water is cold, especially in spring.

Water level

May–June gives the biggest water (about grade III) and shorter, faster runs; from July the river is calmer (grade II) and better for families.

Heads-up

Non-swimmers and young children should not raft in high water in May–June.

Getting there

About 90 km (1.5 h) from Tbilisi on the Military Highway, which is well paved to Pasanauri all year.

History & culture

Culture

Pasanauri is the centre of Mtiuleti, the mountain district of the upper Aragvi. Georgians often name it as the home of the khinkali, the pleated dumpling with a juicy spiced-meat filling, and the local style uses mountain beef and lamb with herbs and chilli.

Local Cuisine

Pasanauri is a byword for khinkali: order kalakuri (with herbs) or mtiuluri (plain, meat and pepper only), eat them by hand by the twisted top, and count on 5–10 per person. Local restaurants also serve mtsvadi (grilled meat) and mountain cheese.

Accommodation

A few guesthouses and small hotels along the highway and the river; most travellers stop for rafting or lunch and stay in Gudauri or Stepantsminda.