The short answer: Tbilisi has two markets every visitor should know. The Dezerter Bazaar, near the central railway station, is the city's big food market: cheese, spices, churchkhela, pickles, fruit and meat. Go in the morning, bring cash in small notes and ask before you taste. The Dry Bridge market, in the centre, is a flea market for Soviet badges, old cameras, carpets, crafts and paintings. It is open daily and busiest at weekends. Both are cash markets, and both reward a bit of time and curiosity.
Dezerter Bazaar
Where and when
The bazaar sprawls over several connected indoor and outdoor areas near Station Square and the central railway station, with no single main entrance[1]. The Station Square metro stop serves both lines[1]. Officially it opens from about 7:00 to 18:00, but individual stallholders keep their own hours, and the widest choice is from morning to early afternoon[1].
The name comes from the early 1920s, when soldiers who had deserted their units traded goods here[2][3]. It is still where many Tbilisi families do their shopping.
What to buy
- Cheese: the cheese hall is the highlight, with salty imeruli, stretchy sulguni (fresh and smoked) and soft nadughi[1]. For what's what, read our guide to Georgian cheese.
- Spices: khmeli suneli, utskho suneli (blue fenugreek) and Svan salt, sold loose by weight; they pack small and make good presents[1]. More in our guide to Georgian spices and sauces.
- Churchkhela and tklapi: walnuts or hazelnuts dipped in thickened grape juice, and sheets of dried fruit purée[1].
- Pickles, adjika and sauces: jars of pickled vegetables, hot red and green adjika and tkemali plum sauce[1].
- Fruit and vegetables: whatever is in season, from summer tomatoes to autumn persimmons and pomegranates.
There are also meat and fish halls. They are real working markets, not tidied up for visitors, which is part of their interest; if you are squeamish, skip them.
How to shop
- Cash: most stallholders don't take cards; bring small lari notes[1].
- Tasting: vendors often offer a taste of cheese, fruit or churchkhela. Ask first, and don't help yourself[1].
- Bargaining: it depends on the stall. Some sellers expect you to pay the price they give; others will negotiate, especially if you buy several things[1]. Keep it friendly.
- Photos: ask before you photograph a stallholder[1].
- Valuables: the aisles are crowded; keep your phone and wallet secure[1].
Taking food home
Spices, churchkhela and dried fruit travel well. Check your home country's rules before packing cheese, meat or fresh produce; many countries restrict dairy and meat from outside their borders.
Dry Bridge market
Where and when
The Dry Bridge flea market spreads over the Dry Bridge (Mshrali Khidi) itself and the neighbouring Dedaena and 9 March parks, in the city centre, a walk of about 850 m from Liberty Square metro[4]. It is open about 10:00 to 17:00 daily. Weekends are much busier, with more sellers; on Mondays only about half the stalls appear. The morning from 11:00 is a good time[4].
What you'll find
Soviet badges, medals and memorabilia, vintage cameras, chandeliers, ceramics, kilims and carpets, vinyl records, maps, old door handles and hinges, and handmade things such as felt shawls and wool socks[4].
How to shop
- Cash only, ideally small notes[4].
- Bargain politely. Haggling is normal, but expect a tourist price to start with[4].
- No pressure: sellers are relaxed, and browsing without buying is fine[4]. Older sellers speak Georgian and Russian more than English.
- Genuine antiques: if something looks genuinely old or valuable, such as an icon or an old painting, ask about export paperwork and check the rules before you fly; many "antiques" are reproductions, which makes things simpler.
Markets outside Tbilisi
Every regional town has its own market, and they are often more relaxed than the Dezerter Bazaar. In Kakheti, the market in Telavi is lively in the morning; go before 11:00, when the choice is widest. In the west, look for churchkhela, local cheese and bottles of home-made wine at markets and roadside stalls. Your driver-guide will know where to stop.
Eating while you shop
Around the Dezerter Bazaar you will find bakeries selling hot shoti bread from tone ovens and simple canteens for khinkali. Buy a loaf, some cheese, a few pickles and a churchkhela for later, and you have a picnic for a day out of town.
Which one, and when
If you care about food, the Dezerter Bazaar is the essential stop; go on a weekday morning. If you like souvenirs with a story, spend a weekend late morning at the Dry Bridge. Both fit easily into a day in the city; see our Old Town walking route for what lies between.
Markets with us
All our tours are private, with your own guide. The Tbilisi food and wine walk starts at the Dezerter Bazaar with cheese, pickles, spices and churchkhela, then moves on to a tone-oven bakery, khinkali and a natural-wine bar, with all food and three glasses of wine included. The Georgian cooking class begins with an hour at the bazaar buying herbs and cheese, then teaches you khachapuri and khinkali. On the Georgia in Winter, 6-day private tour, the Tbilisi day includes the Dry Bridge market as an option. See each tour page for the current price, or plan your own Tbilisi days. Nothing to pay now.
Sources
- Tbilisi Local Guide, "Tbilisi Dezerter Bazaar: food market, what to buy and tips": tbilisilocalguide.com
- Regent Holidays, "The Dezerter Bazaar": regent-holidays.co.uk
- Tellerrand Stories, "Dezerter Bazaar in Tbilisi": tellerrandstories.de
- Wander-Lush, "Tips for the Dry Bridge Market": wander-lush.org
Last checked: September 2026. Market hours vary by stall and season.
