Racha is a mountain region in north-western Georgia, about 90 minutes north of Kutaisi and roughly 5 hours from Tbilisi. It is quiet, green and little visited by foreign travellers. The main reasons to go are the 11th-century Nikortsminda cathedral with its carved stone façades, the forests and lakes of the Nakerala ridge, the old town of Oni, and Khvanchkara, a naturally semi-sweet red wine made only here. Allow two or three days, and go between June and October.
Getting there
There are two roads. From Kutaisi, the usual route goes north through the coal-mining town of Tkibuli and climbs over the Nakerala pass (about 1,500 m) past Shaori lake before dropping to Ambrolauri; count on about 90 minutes. From Tbilisi you either drive west to Kutaisi and take that road (about 5 hours in all), or take the newer road via Sachkhere to Oni (3.5–4 hours). Either way, the last hour or two is winding mountain road, so bring a remedy if you get car-sick. Landslides can close roads after heavy rain.
When to go
Lower Racha, around Ambrolauri, can be visited all year. Upper Racha, above Oni, is for June to October: winter closes the highland roads and many guesthouses shut by November. Summer is green and good for walking; October brings autumn colours and the Racha grape harvest.
Nikortsminda Cathedral
Nikortsminda was built in 1010–1014 under King Bagrat III and dedicated to St Nicholas. Its walls are covered in carved reliefs, including scenes of the Transfiguration and the Last Judgement, saints, animals and mythical creatures; inside are painted frescoes from the 16th–17th centuries. It is on Georgia's tentative list for UNESCO World Heritage status, and it is the one sight in Racha you should not miss. It is an active church: cover your shoulders and knees, and women cover their hair.
Shaori lake and the Nakerala pass
Shaori is a reservoir on the high plateau of the Nakerala ridge, ringed by forest, on the road between Tkibuli and Ambrolauri. It makes a good stop for photos and a stretch, and is at its most colourful in October. On clear days the pass gives a wide view over Lower Racha and the Caucasus beyond.
Ambrolauri and Khvanchkara wine
Ambrolauri is Racha's small main town and the easiest base, with small hotels and family guesthouses. The vineyards of Khvanchkara village are on the slopes nearby. Khvanchkara is a protected appellation: a dark, naturally semi-sweet red made only from two local grapes, Aleksandrouli and Mujuretuli. The sweetness comes from stopping the fermentation early, not from added sugar. Family wineries around Ambrolauri offer tastings; some waive the fee if you buy a bottle.
If you are new to Georgian wine, our guide to Georgian grapes and amber wine explains the main styles, including qvevri wine (UNESCO-listed as intangible heritage since 2013).
Oni and the upper Rioni valley
Oni, further up the Rioni valley from Ambrolauri, is an old market town with a local museum and one of Georgia's most striking synagogues, built in 1895 in a Moorish-revival style. Above Oni the valley narrows towards the high villages of Upper Racha, such as Chiora and Ghebi, with walks in the forest and meadows. From June to September the Rioni between Oni and Ambrolauri is also rafted; you should be a confident swimmer.
Shovi: please don't go
Older guidebooks recommend Shovi, a mountain resort above Oni. On 3 August 2023 a huge debris flow from a collapsing glacier destroyed much of the resort and killed more than 30 people. Two years on, reports described it as still wrecked and abandoned. It is not a place to visit now, and we don't include it in our trips.
Where to eat and sleep
Racha has few restaurants outside Ambrolauri and Oni, so plan lunch stops in advance. Accommodation is in small hotels and guesthouses, not resort hotels. The local dishes to try are Racha ham, smoked over the hearth, and lobiani, bean-filled bread. Cards work in Ambrolauri, but carry cash for villages and small wineries.
How long to stay
- Two days from Kutaisi: Nikortsminda, Shaori and a tasting on day one; Oni and the upper Rioni valley on day two.
- Three days from Tbilisi: the extra day covers the long drive in and out, about 5 hours each way via Kutaisi.
- Four days or more: time for walks around the high villages of Upper Racha in summer, or for rafting on the Rioni.
A day trip from Kutaisi is possible for Nikortsminda and a tasting, but it leaves little time for Oni.
Who Racha suits
Racha suits travellers who have already seen Kazbegi and Kakheti, or who like quiet places, forests and small family wineries. It suits people who don't mind long winding drives less well, and it is not a place for nightlife or big sights. It also combines naturally with Kutaisi and the caves and canyons of Imereti; see our Kutaisi caves and canyons guide.
Tours for this region
Our Racha 3-day private trip crosses the Nakerala pass past Shaori lake to Nikortsminda, spends a day in Oni and the upper Rioni valley, and ends with Khvanchkara tastings at two family wineries; you can finish in Kutaisi. It runs June–October. Wine lovers can add Racha as a 2-day extension to the Georgian Wine Tour, 7 days through Kakheti and Kartli. Both are private, with your own car and English-speaking driver-guide; see the tour page for the current price. Or build your own route. Nothing to pay now.
Sources
- Wander-Lush: Racha travel guide
- Wikipedia: Nikortsminda Cathedral
- Wikipedia: Khvanchkara
- Wikipedia: Oni Synagogue
- Wikipedia: 2023 Shovi landslide
- JAMnews: Shovi two years on
Last checked: September 2026. Mountain roads in Racha can close after landslides; we check them before each trip.
