Caucasus 4x4: Tusheti, Khevsureti & Kazbegi — 8-Day Private Expedition

152 km; 3–3.5 hours of driving, 6–7 hours with stops.

1. 09:00

   Pickup in Tbilisi in our 4x4

2. Jvari Monastery viewpoint and Ananuri fortress

   • Ananuri FortressDay 1: a 30-minute stop at Ananuri, the 17th-century fortress above the Zhinvali reservoir.

     Day 1: a 30-minute stop at Ananuri, the 17th-century fortress above the Zhinvali reservoir.

     Ananuri is a 17th-century fortress of the Dukes of Aragvi above the turquoise Zhinvali reservoir, about 70 km (1–1.25 h) north of Tbilisi on the Georgian Military Highway. Inside its walls stand two churches, one with richly carved façades from 1689, and a square watchtower you can climb for a view down the reservoir. It is the usual first stop on the way to Kazbegi or Pasanauri, and 30–45 minutes is enough to see it.

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3. • KazbegiNights 1 and 2 in Stepantsminda (about 1,750 m) under Mt Kazbek (5,054 m).

     Nights 1 and 2 in Stepantsminda (about 1,750 m) under Mt Kazbek (5,054 m).

     Stepantsminda, still widely called Kazbegi, is the mountain town at about 1,740 m on the Georgian Military Highway, 152 km north of Tbilisi (3–3.5 h) and 15 km from the Russian border. Above it the 14th-century Gergeti Trinity Church stands at 2,170 m with Mount Kazbek (5,054 m) behind. It is the base for walks to Gergeti, the Gveleti waterfall and the Dariali gorge, and by 4x4 for the Truso and Juta valleys. Come as a long day trip, or stay a night or two to walk in the morning light.

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4. 13:00

   Lunch in Pasanauri (not included)

5. 16:00

   Stepantsminda; Gergeti Trinity at sunset

   • Trinity Church GergetiDay 1 or 2: Gergeti Trinity Church (14th century, 2,170 m), at sunset on arrival or early the next morning before the crowds.

     Day 1 or 2: Gergeti Trinity Church (14th century, 2,170 m), at sunset on arrival or early the next morning before the crowds.

     Gergeti Trinity Church (Tsminda Sameba) stands alone on a grassy ridge at 2,170 m above Stepantsminda, about 152 km north of Tbilisi, with the glaciated cone of Mount Kazbek (5,054 m) behind it. The 14th-century church and its bell tower are a working Orthodox site and the classic view of the Georgian Caucasus. You reach it by car on the paved road from town or on foot in about 1–1.5 hours up through meadows, 430 m of climbing. Most people stay 45–60 minutes for the church, the views and the photos.

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6. Overnight: Stepantsminda (hotel, breakfast)

A walking day of 3–5 hours.

1. 08:00

   By local 4x4 into the Truso valley (passports), or to the Juta road-end (July–September)

   • Truso ValleyDay 2 (May–October): by local 4x4 up the Truso valley past travertine springs, mineral lakes and abandoned Ossetian villages; carry your passport for the border-police check.

     Day 2 (May–October): by local 4x4 up the Truso valley past travertine springs, mineral lakes and abandoned Ossetian villages; carry your passport for the border-police check.

     Truso is a high valley of the upper Terek river, starting near Kobi on the Georgian Military Highway about 20 km south of Stepantsminda. From the village of Kvemo Okrokana a dirt track runs up the nearly flat valley floor past bubbling mineral springs, orange and white travertine terraces, the small Abano mineral lake, the abandoned village of Ketrisi and the towers of Zakagori fortress. You walk part of it or ride in a local 4x4. The upper valley ends at the occupation line of the Tskhinvali region.

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   • JutaDay 2 alternative (July–September): the walk from Juta (about 2,200 m) towards the Chaukhi peaks. Since the June 2025 road collapse the last 2.6 km are on foot or by village taxi.

     Day 2 alternative (July–September): the walk from Juta (about 2,200 m) towards the Chaukhi peaks. Since the June 2025 road collapse the last 2.6 km are on foot or by village taxi.

     Juta is a small mountain village at about 2,200 m at the head of the Sno valley, south-east of Stepantsminda (Kazbegi), under the jagged Chaukhi massif (3,842 m), often called the Georgian Dolomites. From the village an easy path climbs through meadows past the Fifth Season hut towards the foot of the peaks: about 10–12 km return with 360–400 m of climbing. Since a road collapse in June 2025, the last 2.6 km of road below the village has been closed, so you finish the approach on foot or by village taxi. Go from July to September.

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2. Walk with your driver-guide (a local hiking guide on longer routes)

3. Picnic lunch (not included)

4. Evening in Stepantsminda

5. Overnight: Stepantsminda (hotel, breakfast)

⚠ About 6 hours of driving: Stepantsminda–Zhinvali 1.5–2 h, then at least 4 h to Shatili, on a mountain dirt road beyond Korsha.

1. 08:00

   Drive south to Zhinvali

2. 10:30

   Barisakho and Korsha

3. 13:00

   Datvisjvari pass; picnic lunch (not included)

4. 16:00

   Shatili tower village

   • ShatiliDays 3–4: over the Datvisjvari pass to Shatili, a cluster of medieval tower-houses on a rock above the Argun river; two nights in a guesthouse with half board.

     Days 3–4: over the Datvisjvari pass to Shatili, a cluster of medieval tower-houses on a rock above the Argun river; two nights in a guesthouse with half board.

     Shatili is a fortress village of about 60 joined stone towers and dwellings at about 1,400 m in the Argun gorge of Khevsureti, on the north side of the Greater Caucasus near the Chechen border. It is reached by 4x4 over the Datvisjvari pass (about 2,700 m), about 4.5–5 hours from Tbilisi, and only from early summer to autumn. You walk the narrow passages and ladders between the towers, visit the Anatori crypts and Mutso down the valley, and sleep in a family guesthouse.

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5. Overnight: Shatili (guesthouse, half board)

Short drives in the Argun valley.

1. 09:00

   Mutso: steep 20–30 minute climb through the fortress village

   • MutsoDay 4: Mutso, a restored fortress village on a crag above the Andaki valley (a steep 20–30 minute climb), and the stone crypts of Anatori.

     Day 4: Mutso, a restored fortress village on a crag above the Andaki valley (a steep 20–30 minute climb), and the stone crypts of Anatori.

     Mutso is a largely deserted fortress village of slate towers and houses clinging to a steep ridge at about 1,880 m in the Ardoti valley of Khevsureti, about 11–12 km from Shatili near the Russian border. Its houses were built wall to wall so that the village itself formed a defensive wall. The dirt road from Shatili follows the Argun river past the Anatori crypts, then a steep path of 20–30 minutes climbs to the towers, restored with traditional dry-stone masonry.

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2. 12:00

   Anatori crypts

3. Afternoon in Shatili

4. Overnight: Shatili (guesthouse, half board)

⚠ About 6–7 hours of driving back over the pass and around Tbilisi to Kakheti.

1. 08:00

   Depart Shatili

2. 13:00

   Lunch on the way (not included)

3. 17:30

   Telavi

   • TelaviNight 5 in Telavi, Kakheti's main town, between Khevsureti and Tusheti, which have no road between them.

     Night 5 in Telavi, Kakheti's main town, between Khevsureti and Tusheti, which have no road between them.

     Telavi is the main town of Kakheti, Georgia's wine region, on the slopes of the Gombori range above the Alazani Valley, about 95 km (2 h) from Tbilisi. It is a practical base for the wine country: the Tsinandali estate, Alaverdi Cathedral, the Ikalto academy and the royal town of Gremi are all within 30 minutes. In town you see the fortress and palace of King Erekle II, the giant plane tree and a lively morning market, then spend the afternoon at family cellars and wineries.

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4. Overnight: Telavi (hotel, breakfast)

⚠ About 7 hours on the road: Telavi–Kvemo Alvani about 45 min, then 4–5 hours on the Abano road with an experienced local driver. Go/no-go call at 06:00, depending on the weather.

1. 07:30

   Kvemo Alvani: switch to the Tusheti jeep

2. Abano pass (about 2,850 m)

   • Abano PassDay 6: the Abano pass (about 2,850 m), one of the highest drivable passes in the Caucasus, with an experienced local driver; back over it early on day 8.

     Day 6: the Abano pass (about 2,850 m), one of the highest drivable passes in the Caucasus, with an experienced local driver; back over it early on day 8.

     Abano Pass (2,826 m) carries the only road into Tusheti: about 70 km of unpaved, mostly single-lane track from Kvemo Alvani in Kakheti, via Pshaveli, to Omalo, with hairpins, drops of several hundred metres and waterfalls running across the road. The crossing takes 4–6 hours by 4x4 and is itself one of the highlights of a Tusheti trip: you stop at the pass for the view over both valleys, then descend to Omalo, the gateway to the Pirikiti and Gometsari valleys. It is open only in summer, when the snow has gone.

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3. • Omalo (Tusheti)Days 6–7: two nights in Omalo, with the restored Keselo towers above Upper Omalo and the village of Shenako nearby; guesthouse with half board.

     Days 6–7: two nights in Omalo, with the restored Keselo towers above Upper Omalo and the village of Shenako nearby; guesthouse with half board.

     Omalo is the main village of Tusheti, a high mountain region in north-east Georgia reached by a single dirt road over the Abano Pass (2,826 m), usually open only from June to early October. Upper Omalo sits below the restored stone towers of Keselo, and Lower Omalo has the national park visitor centre. From here you walk or drive by 4x4 to the tower villages of Shenako, Diklo and Dartlo, and eat Tushetian food in family guesthouses.

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4. 14:00

   Omalo; Keselo towers

5. Overnight: Omalo (guesthouse, half board)

Village tracks and short walks.

1. 09:00

   Dartlo and Kvavlo

   • DartloDay 7: Dartlo and neighbouring Kvavlo, slate-roofed tower villages in the Pirikiti valley.

     Day 7: Dartlo and neighbouring Kvavlo, slate-roofed tower villages in the Pirikiti valley.

     Dartlo is a stone-tower village at about 2,000 m in the Pirikiti Alazani valley of Tusheti, about 12–15 km from Omalo by 4x4 track. Its slate-roofed houses and towers have been restored, and the tower ruins of Kvavlo stand 350 m above on the ridge. No one lives here in winter; in summer families return and open guesthouses. Travellers come to walk up to Kvavlo, see the old stone council seats and start the walk up the valley to Parsma.

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2. Shenako, and Diklo with passports for the border-police check

3. Evening in Omalo

4. Overnight: Omalo (guesthouse, half board)

⚠ About 8 hours on the road: Omalo to Kvemo Alvani 4–4.5 h, then about 3 h to Tbilisi.

1. 07:30

   Depart Omalo by jeep

2. 12:00

   Kvemo Alvani; lunch (not included)

3. 16:00

   In Tbilisi