The short answer: yes, you can visit David Gareja in 2026, but only part of it. The Lavra, the lower monastery, is open, free and still home to monks. The Udabno monastery on the ridge above it, with its painted cave churches, is closed or unpredictable, because it sits on an undemarcated stretch of the border with Azerbaijan. Go in spring or autumn, dress for a working monastery, and treat the ridge walk as a bonus if it happens to be open on the day.
Where it is
David Gareja is a complex of cave monasteries cut into the sandstone hills of the Gareja semi-desert in south-east Kakheti, about 100–110 km from Tbilisi and 1.5–2 hours by road [1]. It was founded in the 6th century by St David Garejeli, one of the Thirteen Assyrian Fathers who came to Georgia to strengthen the young church [1]. Over the following centuries monks carved dozens of cells, churches and refectories into the rock; some were painted with frescoes.
The landscape is the opposite of the green Georgia on most postcards: bare, striped hills, big skies and, in the right light, the pink, ochre and green bands that give the area its nickname of the "Rainbow Mountains".
What is open in 2026
The Lavra: open
The Lavra is the monastery you drive up to. You walk through a gate into a series of courtyards built into the cliff, with churches, cave cells and the tomb of St David. It is an active monastery, so some areas are closed to visitors, and there are no fixed opening hours; you can visit in daylight [1]. There is no entrance fee [1].
Udabno and the ridge walk: closed or unpredictable
The Udabno monastery and the ridge path above the Lavra lie on the line between Georgia and Azerbaijan, which has never been fully agreed. Azerbaijani border guards have closed access more than once, notably in 2019 and again in 2024 [3]. In March 2026 the ridge trail was still reported closed [1], and Georgian tour operators have taken it off their routes [4]. It could reopen at short notice or stay shut; nobody can promise it ahead of your date, including us. If you see it advertised as a sure thing, ask how recent that information is.
Getting there
- The road: from Tbilisi you drive east via Sagarejo, then south across the steppe through the village of Udabno. The road has been largely paved in recent years, with a gravel section near Udabno [1]. There are no shops or fuel near the monastery, so bring water.
- Shared shuttle: a seasonal minivan service, the Gareji Line, has run from central Tbilisi in the warmer months, at 40 GEL return per person [1]. Check its current timetable before you rely on it.
- Private car or tour: the most flexible way, and the only easy way to combine Gareja with Sighnaghi or Bodbe on the same day.
When to go: heat and snakes
The site is very exposed, with little shade, and in July and August temperatures can pass 40 °C [5]. The most comfortable months are March to May, when the steppe is green and full of wildflowers, and September to November [2][5].
The semi-desert is home to venomous vipers, which are active in the warm months from about May [2][1]. Bites are rare, but keep to the paths, wear closed shoes, look where you put your hands on rocks, and don't let children scramble off the trail. In winter the site is quiet and can be cold and windy, but it is usually reachable.
Dress code and behaviour
- Men: long trousers and covered shoulders.
- Women: a skirt below the knee, covered shoulders and a headscarf [1]. Bring your own; don't count on spares at the gate.
- Speak quietly in the courtyards, and ask before photographing monks.
- Drones and loud music are out of place at an active monastery.
The Rainbow Mountains and Udabno village
The striped hills are part of the reason to come. You see them from the road and around the monastery; the classic panorama was from the ridge walk, which is the part that is currently closed. Some operators run off-road 4x4 routes to other painted hills in the area [2]. In Udabno village, a few kilometres before the monastery, the Oasis Club serves lunch [1], which is useful because there is little else nearby.
Combining Gareja with Sighnaghi
Gareja alone takes 7–8 hours from Tbilisi [2]. Many visitors add Sighnaghi and the Bodbe convent, about 2 hours further on, which makes a 10–11 hour day with around 6 hours in the car. It works well if you start early, but it is long. If you have the time, splitting it into two days is gentler: Gareja one day, and a full Kakheti wine day with Sighnaghi, Bodbe and a cellar or two on another.
Who it suits, and who it doesn't
David Gareja suits travellers interested in monastic history and anyone who wants to see Georgia's desert side. It is less rewarding if your main goal was the Udabno frescoes or the ridge hike, since neither can be counted on in 2026. It is also a poor choice in high summer, and for anyone who finds heat hard.
Seeing David Gareja with us
Our private David Gareja and Sighnaghi day trip spends about two hours at the Lavra, stops for lunch in Udabno, then continues to Sighnaghi's walls with a wine tasting, and the Bodbe convent. The ridge walk is only included if it is open on the day, and we tell you honestly on the morning. If wine matters more than monasteries, the private Kakheti wine day trip covers Bodbe, Sighnaghi, Tsinandali and a family qvevri cellar. See each tour page for the current price, or plan your own route and we send a private itinerary with a price. Nothing to pay now.
Sources
- Wander-Lush, "David Gareja Monastery: 2026 status update" (updated 30 March 2026): wander-lush.org
- Advantour, David Gareja tour (access, snakes, timings): advantour.com
- OC Media, "Azerbaijan restores Georgian access to Davit Gareji monastery" (2019) and "Azerbaijan–Georgia row reignites over Davit Gareja monastery complex" (2024): oc-media.org, oc-media.org
- Friendly.ge, Gareji off-road tour ("The Udabno Monastery area is currently closed"): friendly.ge
- Sakhva Travel, "David Gareja Monastery": sakhva-travel.com
Last checked: September 2026. Access to Udabno can change without notice; check on the day.
