In short: most day trips to Kakheti stop at Sighnaghi and Bodbe. The other side of the wine region lies around Telavi, its main town, about 2 hours from Tbilisi over the Gombori pass [1]. Within a short drive are the 11th-century cathedral of Alaverdi, the 16th-century royal citadel of Gremi, the ruined academy of Ikalto and the Chavchavadze estate at Tsinandali. You can see two or three of them on a long day from Tbilisi; to see them all without rushing, stay a night in or near Telavi.
Getting there: the Gombori pass
The direct road from Tbilisi to Telavi climbs over the forested Gombori range, then drops into the Alazani Valley. It takes about 2 hours by car [1]. Near the Telavi end of the road are the churches of Old and New Shuamta in the woods, an easy short stop. In snow or ice the pass can be slow, and drivers take the longer, lower road through Sagarejo instead. Marshrutkas to Telavi leave from Tbilisi's Navtlughi (Samgori) bus station and take 2–3 hours [1].
Telavi
Telavi sits at about 490 m on the foothills of the Gombori range and is the administrative centre of Kakheti [2]. In the 18th century King Erekle II made it his capital; by 1762 it was the second capital of the united kingdom of Kartli-Kakheti [2].
- Batonis Tsikhe ("the master's fortress"): the walled 17th-century royal residence where Erekle II lived, and one of the few royal palaces in Georgia to survive in good condition [2]. The palace and the museum inside are the main sight in town, and Erekle II's statue stands outside.
- The giant plane tree: a short walk away, a plane tree thought to be about 900 years old, some 40 m tall with a trunk about 11 m round [2].
- The market: produce, churchkhela, spices and cheese. Go before 11:00, when it is at its liveliest.
Telavi is a working town rather than a showpiece like Sighnaghi, which is part of its appeal, and it has plenty of hotels and guesthouses for a base.
Alaverdi Cathedral and the monastery cellar
About 20 km from Telavi, Alaverdi rises out of the flat valley floor with the Caucasus behind it. The monastery was founded in the 6th century by Joseph of Alaverdi, an Assyrian monk from Antioch, on the site of an older pagan shrine [3]. The present Cathedral of St George was built in the 11th century under King Kvirike III of Kakheti, and it was the tallest church in Georgia until Tbilisi's Sameba Cathedral was consecrated in 2004 [3]. Queen Ketevan of Kakheti and King Teimuraz I are buried here [3].
The monks still make wine. The monastery's cellar has been dated to between the 10th and 12th centuries [3], which makes Alaverdi a good place to see how deep qvevri winemaking runs in the church as well as in family homes. Whether the cellar receives visitors varies; your guide can check on the day. Dress code: shoulders and knees covered, and women cover their hair.
Gremi: the royal citadel
Gremi, on the road towards Kvareli, was the capital of the Kingdom of Kakheti in the 16th and 17th centuries and a busy trading town on the Silk Road [4]. King Levan of Kakheti built the complex between 1565 and 1577. In 1615 the armies of Shah Abbas I of Persia razed the town, and the kings later moved their capital to Telavi; Gremi never recovered [4].
What survives stands on a hill above the road: the Church of the Archangels Michael and Gabriel, a three-storey royal tower, a bell tower, a marani (wine cellar) and parts of the walls [4]. A small museum in the tower shows archaeological finds, including a 16th-century cannon, and the view from the top over the valley is the reason to climb it. The museum charges a small fee; the grounds are open to walk around. Gremi has been on Georgia's tentative list for UNESCO World Heritage since 2007 [4].
Ikalto: the academy
About 10 km west of Telavi, Ikalto was founded in the 6th century by Zenon, one of the Thirteen Assyrian Fathers who spread monasticism in Georgia. In the 12th century, under King David the Builder, Arsen of Ikalto set up an academy here, one of the main centres of learning in medieval Georgia. Tradition holds that Shota Rustaveli, author of the national epic, studied at Ikalto [2]. Today the churches still stand and the academy is a roofless ruin, with old qvevri in the grass. It is quiet and takes 30–45 minutes.
Tsinandali
About 10 km from Telavi, Tsinandali was the estate of Prince Alexander Chavchavadze (1786–1846), who built an Italianate house and laid out a large landscape garden [5]. In 1854 raiders led by Imam Shamil's son attacked the estate and took members of the family hostage [5]. Today the house is a museum, open daily from 10:00 to 18:00, with a park to walk in afterwards. The enoteca holds bottles from 1814 onwards; the famous one is an 1841 Saperavi. A tasting of estate wines is offered after the tour. Since 2019 the estate has also hosted a classical music festival [5].
One day or two?
As a day trip
A Telavi-side day from Tbilisi goes over the Gombori pass, visits Tsinandali and a family cellar, adds Alaverdi or Telavi, and comes back the same way: 10–12 hours. Our private Kakheti wine day trip combines Sighnaghi and Bodbe with Tsinandali and a family qvevri cellar near Telavi, returning over the Gombori pass.
With a night
To see Telavi, Alaverdi, Gremi and Ikalto properly, sleep in Telavi. The 3-day private Kakheti wine tour does exactly this: a night in Sighnaghi, then Tsinandali, a qvevri maker in Vardisubani, a family supra and a night in Telavi, and a final morning at Telavi market, Alaverdi and Gremi before the drive back.
For the other half of Kakheti, read our Sighnaghi and Bodbe guide, and for how the wine works, our guide to Kakheti wine tours.
When to go
- September–October: the grape harvest (rtveli); the busiest and liveliest time.
- May–June: green vines, mild weather and snow still on the Caucasus behind Alaverdi.
- July–August: hot on the valley floor; visit churches early.
- Winter: cellars and churches are open, but the Gombori pass can be icy.
Tours for this: Telavi, Alaverdi and Gremi with us
Our tours are private, so you choose how long to spend at each stop, and the driver doesn't drink. For the full Telavi side, take the Kakheti wine tour, 3 days; for one day, the Kakheti wine day trip, which we can steer towards Alaverdi on request. See each tour page for the current price, or plan your own Kakheti route and we send a private itinerary with a price. Nothing to pay now.
Sources
- Wander-Lush, "How to travel from Tbilisi to Sighnaghi or Telavi in 2026": wander-lush.org
- Wikipedia, "Telavi": en.wikipedia.org
- Wikipedia, "Alaverdi Monastery": en.wikipedia.org
- Wikipedia, "Gremi": en.wikipedia.org
- Wikipedia, "Tsinandali": en.wikipedia.org
- Advantour, Kakheti tours (Telavi variants): advantour.com
Last checked: September 2026. Museum hours and fees change; we confirm them before each trip.
