Guria
On the Black Sea in western Georgia: Ureki's magnetic sand, the mountain resorts of Bakhmaro and Gomismta, Shemokmedi Monastery and krimanchuli singing.
Guria lies mainly in the Colchian (Kolkheti) Lowland of western Georgia, between Adjara and Samegrelo, with 22 km of Black Sea shoreline and mountains inland. It is made up of three municipalities: Ozurgeti, Lanchkhuti and Chokhatauri. Ozurgeti, the administrative centre, was founded in the late Middle Ages and soon became the centre of Guria.
On the coast, the resorts of Ureki, Shekvetili and Grigoleti are known for their magnetic sand, volcanic sand carried down to the sea from Bakhmaro Mountain by the Supsa River. Ureki's 1.5 km of coast is covered with it, and Shekvetili has a 60-hectare dendrological park and the Black Sea Arena concert hall. Inland are the mountain resorts of Bakhmaro and Gomismta, which is called the "resort in the clouds". In the Gubazeuli valley, the village of Nabeghlavi gives its name to the mineral water from its springs, and you can drink it straight from the source.
Shemokmedi Monastery, 5 km from Ozurgeti, with a 12th-century church and the 16th-century Zarzma church, is one of the few religious monuments in Guria not destroyed in Soviet times. From Jumati Monastery, in good weather, you can see the Colchis Plain, Lake Paliastomi and the Black Sea, and the walls of the 13th-century church at Achi are covered in frescoes. Folk song is the region's hallmark: krimanchuli, a leading example of Gurian polyphony, is often compared to yodelling, and Georgian polyphony has been UNESCO-recognised since 2001.
On the map
Good to know
Best time to visit
Ureki's beach season runs from June to mid-September. In the mountains, Bakhmaro's summer season starts in June and ends with its horse race on 19 August, and Gomismta is busiest from June to September; pack warm clothes even in summer. In winter, Bakhmaro's snow reaches 4–5 m and draws ski tourers and freeriders.
Getting there
By road, Ozurgeti is about 1 hour 5 minutes from Batumi, 1 hour 40 minutes from Kutaisi and 4 hours 35 minutes from Tbilisi. Shekvetili is about 50 minutes by car from Batumi International Airport and 90 minutes from Kutaisi International Airport. Bakhmaro is about 52 km from Chokhatauri, the nearest town. In winter the road up from Chokhatauri is often covered in heavy snow: you need at least a high-clearance vehicle, or you can hire a snowmobile or snowcat in Chokhatauri.
Food and wine
Gurian cooking is rich in plant-based dishes: try mkhali, vegetables and meadow greens boiled and seasoned with spices, walnut dishes, and Gurian beans with mchadi cornbread. At Christmas and at Kalanda, the Gurian New Year on 14 January, crescent-shaped pies (ghvezeli) filled with cheese and boiled egg are baked. Local wines include Chkhaveri, Jani, Skhilatubani and Tsolikouri, and Guria also grows tea, mandarins and oranges.
Travel tips
In winter, Bakhmaro carries a significant avalanche risk, especially after heavy snow: ski with an experienced guide, carry a beacon, probe and shovel, and don't count on mobile signal in remote areas. For a night in an oda, the west Georgian wooden house raised on stone posts, look for a family hotel set up in one. Once a year, at Easter, the village of Shukhuti in Lanchkhuti plays lelo, an ancient ball game.
Plan your trip
We don't have set destinations here yet, but we plan trips to this region on request: tell us what you'd like to see and we'll build a private tour around it.
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